To Vancouver By Two Ferries…And a Few Buses…And a Bit of Light Rail

If my fetish for ferries isn’t clear by now, this travelogue should dispel any doubts. But this itinerary isn’t just for transit junkies. Transit in British Columbia adds a lot to a trip. Besides, this route is much more comfortable and has fewer delays and stops than taking Amtrak or Greyhound through the awful Peace Arch border crossing. It also provides views of Mount Baker and other landmarks from a new angle.

I admit, I took this trip last summer and I’m not sure how much things have changed in the transit network. There’s apparently a new Skytrain line that makes for a more direct route from the ferry terminal, but I maintain (from perusing Google Street View) that the route I took provides the best introduction to the city.

So- on to it then!
From Anacortes: A ferry, customs, a bus, another ferry, two more buses and the Skytrain.

Now this trip can only be made from March through October, as the ferry does not run to Vancouver Island in the winter. There is still, of course, the ferry from Port Angeles; but just getting to the peninsula from Anacortes will add a day to your trip. But if it is spring, summer or early fall; take the 7:45 ferry from Anacortes. This ferry is generally all tourists, as it doesn’t make any stops in the intermittent ports. I’m sure there’s an explanation about regulations for the ferry to be in Anacortes overnight and has to rush to the West side of the islands to get the commuters to the mainland at a decent time, but those questions are best for a random stranger that will inevitably chat with you, especially if you’re traveling alone.

Customs in Sidney are the most agreeable security personnel you’re ever likely to deal with. It’s not the biggest consolation; as they’re still, by job description, tightasses. But at least they won’t be flipping through every page of the book you’re reading and the pictures on your phone. Little victories like this go a long way when crossing the border.

The town of Sidney is essentially a Canadian reflection of Anacortes, much to the chagrin of travelers like myself hoping for a seedy border town out of a Graham Greene story. From the ferry dock, just go a few blocks to Beacon Street where there are some cafes and several surprisingly good bookstores. Off on a side street is a Canadian Forces peacekeeping memorial; you know, just to remind yourself you’re in Canada. Of course, when you’ve seen all there is to see in Sidney (after about an hour) catch the bus at 5th and Beacon. Take care that it’s one heading to the Swartz Bay ferry terminal. Try to avoid giggling with delight when the bus pulls up and it’s an awesome double-decker like in the movies. If you catch the right one, it will drop you right at the entrance to the ferry terminal, a small point of efficiency that is lost on quite a few transit agencies. A ferry leaves for Tsawassen about once an hour.

There’s something refreshingly modern (or perhaps just a bit European) about ferries in British Columbia. They’re practically noiseless and make very sharp turns through narrow channels. If a ferry ride could be called exciting, that’s how I would label this one. There’s even a smoking section on the deck, where someone will inevitably be smoking pot. The views are absolutely beautiful and it’s interesting to see the islands and mountains from behind, so to speak.

Right outside the ferry terminal is a bus stop where you catch the 620 to Ladner Exchange. Once there, I recommend walking a few blocks north to the 7-11 across from the McDonalds and buying a transit day pass so you won’t have to be constantly inspecting and counting unfamiliar coins.

From Ladner Exchange the 640 heads to Surrey. This route gives a good cross section of the local population as it slowly takes on more commuters and is packed by the fifth or sixth stop. It heads up River Road past saw mills and an industrial area before reaching the Scott Road Station where the Skytrain leaves every four minutes or so to drop you right downtown.

Arriving in town by Skytrain makes the hassle of buses worth it. It’s fast, efficient and, if you’re lucky, you can sit in the front and pretend you’re driving. Last time I was in Vancouver I seriously spent four hours one day just riding around on the Skytrain. Maybe it was just a childhood memory of riding the Seattle Monorail for the first time and being excited that this monorail isn’t such a disappointingly short ride. The whole thing has an ultra-modern feel to it, as if all those science fiction TV shows filmed in Vancouver rubbed off a little on the city planners.

So this way you step off the train and into the bustle of Vancouver, you can easily avoid looking like a tourist and experience the walk to your hotel or whatever just like any other commuter.